Tiraspol, Transnistria: a trip to the country that does not exist

A journey to Transnistria, to a country that does not exist,

back in the USSR, or a time travel capsule?

Transnistria is a strip of land between Moldova and Ukraine.

Theoretically, it belongs to Moldova, as it is not recognized by any state, but in fact, it has been a de facto independent country since 1990, with its own government, army, police, currency, flag, and even vehicle registration plates. It is the only country that still uses the famous communist symbol of hammer and sickle, on its flag. Its name means “beyond the river Dniester”, which is also the natural border between the two countries in some areas.

The approximately 500,000 inhabitants are mainly Russians, Moldovans and Ukrainians, of whom around 130,000 live in the capital Tiraspol. They have chosen not only to preserve all the Soviet monuments, but also the style of the former Soviet Union, which is the reason that the country is often referred to as a “time capsule”! Just walking there feels like you are taken back in time, hanging out with Lenin and Stalin!

The Transnistrian ruble is the official currency, used exclusively within the country, while they also accept Euro, Moldovan and Romanian currencies. Exchange offices can be found everywhere around the town and the exchange rate is € 1 = 17.35 rubles (early 2024).

Further information about the history of the area can be easily found on the internet. In this post, however, you will find details about how to visit and what to see in this very special part of Europe and one of the few places on the planet that still resemble the former USSR.

My own trip started from Thessaloniki to Bucharest with Ryanair, in January 2024.

In the heart of the winter, with incredible cold and snow, which, however, made the gray, strict, Soviet style towns of Moldova a little more attractive. In any case, the weather conditions have never stopped me, and I am used to travel in both very low and high temperatures. There was also an alternative direct flight from Athens to Chisinau (the capital of Moldova), but it was much more expensive than the one I chose.

From Bucharest, I booked a night bus to Chisinau, leaving at 00.00 and arriving around 08.30 am. the next day. At the Filaret bus station in Bucharest though, which is located outside the city center, I had a very unpleasant incident: the waiting room was closed, there was no toilet and no shop around to buy water and food for the journey, so I had to go back to the city center, while it was pouring rain and the cold was unbearable. Thankfully, the bus ride was very comfortable, and I managed to sleep at least all the way to the Moldovan border.

Moldova is not a member of the European Union, so a passport is needed, but not a visa (Greek passport holders). The process in the border was very simple: the bus was checked by the border police of both countries, and after they collected the travel documents from the passengers and there was no issue, we entered Moldova and in less than 2 hours, we reached the capital.

Arriving in Chisinau, the bus stopped at the North bus station, outside the city. From there, I had to take a city bus to the central station, in order to continue my ride to Tiraspol. At the first station I exchanged euros to Moldovan lei and bought a local sim card that I also used in Transnistria (although the connection there was very weak).

Travel expenses

• Thessaloniki – Bucharest – Thessaloniki flight by Ryanair: € 34 
• Bucharest – Chisinau – Bucharest bus ticket by the Moldovan company Gal Trans: € 34
• City bus no. 9 from North bus station to the city center: €0.30 (6 lei)
• Moldcell 40GB SIM card: €2.50 (49 lei)

Marsut…. masrutka… maruska… marshrutka, what a pain in the a$$ but I finally made it!

That’s not the name of a weird Soviet food, this is how they call the small van used by locals in and out of the towns. They can be found mainly at the bus stations or in the middle of the street. Sometimes they stick to the schedule, other times they depart as soon as they are full. Anyway, you have to learn the name, because that’s what you’ll be using around Moldova!

The bus station to Tiraspol is located in the city center of Chisinau (autogara central Chisinau). There, I booked a seat in a marshrutka and almost 2 hours later, including the stop at the border, I arrived in Tiraspol. At the border between Moldova and Transnistria, travel documents are checked, but passports are not stamped. They only issue a small piece of paper just like a receipt, with the visitor’s details and the days of stay, which you have to keep until you leave the country (although I was never asked for it). 

Leaving the border behind, the first town you come across is Bender. The bus keeps going, crosses the Dniester River and ends in the center of Tiraspol.

• Chisinau – Tiraspol ticket: € 2.97 (57 MDL)

T I R A S P O L

The capital of Transnistria, located very close to the Ukrainian border, is not a particularly big town, and lots of travelers choose just a day trip from Chisinau, as the main sights are gathered around the center. I chose to stay for one night, in order to explore with no pressure of time, as it was getting dark early, and also visit Bender the next day, on my way back to Chisinau.

What to see in Tiraspol:

• The building of the Federal Government – Parliament and the statue of Lenin
• The Memorial Park with war memorials, statues and tanks
• The park De Wollant with the statue of Catherine the Great and various other monuments
• Suvorov Park with the statue of Suvorov
• The Kirov Park with the magnificent Church of Christ
• The Russian Christmas church
• The Town Hall
• The local Green Market
• The KVINT winery for local wine and cognac
• The river Dniester, to enjoy a walk / cruise

* For lunch/dinner, I definitely recommend the traditional tavern “Back in the USSR ”, where the place looks like a Soviet museum.  Price for a portion of Kiev chicken with mashed potatoes and a glass of local wine was € 8 (140 rubles)

 

** I stayed at the Old Tiraspol guesthouse, in the city center, in a double room/single suppl for € 10 per night

B E N D E R

Bender is the first town you meet after crossing the border of Moldova – Transnistria, and is known mainly for its medieval castle.

I visited the second day on my way back to Chisinau, as it was convenient to reach by the marshrutka starting from Tiraspol bus station. I did not pay a ticket for that route and the driver dropped me right outside the castle.

What to see in Bender:

• The perfectly preserved medieval Tighina castle, and the museum of torture. Entrance fee: € 64 (50 rubles)
• The monuments on the way to the city, Alexandr Lebed, Tank monument, etc
• The central local market

Going back to Chisinau was very easy as well. I booked a seat on a marshrutka once more, departing from the bus station, which is located close to the police booth, at the entrance of the town. Ticket price was € 3.20 (MDL 61.70).

Transnistria was actually a very pleasant surprise!!!

This trip to the era of the former Soviet Union offered me so many unique experiences, I enjoyed to the fullest. If you hadn’t visited it back then, there, you have the chance to experience its vibe!

Together with the rest of my stay in Chisinau and that one-day tour to Gagauzia, one more special region of Moldova, it turned out to be an incredibly interesting trip that I would definitely recommend to everyone!